Here are the three previous installments:

Photography Basics I | Photography Basics II | Photography Basics – III

Today’s topic is the equipment in general.

And to begin with I’d like to address a myth. Far more important than the equipment is the photographer itself.

Not that quality equipment is not necessary – by no means no! But the notion that you need to spend a gazillion bucks in order to shoot great pictures is plain wrong.

For one – even in point and shoot cameras that you can buy today the technology to assist you in getting great shots is so advanced, that one can not really say anymore that the images shots with them is inferior.

I know a couple of absolutely fantastic photographers, shooting with “cheap” equipment, that put some of the most famous photographers to shame.

So after we settled that – we can go on looking what’s out there. Mind you – I will leave out more exotic tools, like rangefinder cameras, Middle and large formats out of the picture and concentrate on “normal” stuff.

Of course for everyone who wants to get into Photography the question is – where to start.

My best advice is – that that depends on what you are trying to do, and with what level of conviction.

I divide cameras into 4 classes:

1. Point and Shoot with no optical zoom.

2. Advanced Point and shoot
3. Entry Level DSLR
4. Pro Level DSLR

1. Point and Shoot with no optical zoom.

In short – if you want to take wildlife shots, shoot animals and closeups – don’t even think of getting one of those. While not necessary delivering bad images – these cameras are – all in all, just ok for landscape and some snapshots. No animal will let you get that close, that you can shoot a good picture with a wider angle lens, which these cameras offer.
So these would be a no no if you have the ambition to shoot songbirds or any kind of wildlife.

2. Advanced Point and shoot

These puppies do offer some serious shooting power and at the higher end they do offer astonishing quality.
They are relativley affordable and range from $250 – $600. The more expensive ones not only do offer high powered zooms (12x – 18X optical zoom), Image stabilization, video capacity, and what’s equally important, options to override automatic settings, so that you’re able to select shutter speed or aperture in order to achieve certain shots, that automatic settings won’t allow.

Of course there are limitations, that you have to be aware of. Foremost downside of all Point and Shoot cameras is currently their ability to handle low light. There they are no match to DSLR cameras.
Despite them offering lenses with quite well kinown lenses (Leics, Zeiss) they are not top of the line and they simply can not be in that price range. Most of them do have plastic lens elements and tend to show Chromatic aberrations, some optical distortion and usually get soft at the higher range of the zoom range.

But these downsides never are extreme – so you don’t have to worry about getting crappy images. No.

These limitations only show in extreme situations, in low light and high contrast.

I recommend this camera class for everyone, who wants to do more than casual photography, but is not sure if it will become a major way of spending free time.

3. Entry Level DSLR

This is the class of cameras somewhere between $500 and $1200 without lens. They still provide a lot of automatics, presets for Landscape, sports etc., aren’t as sturdy as Pro-Level cameras and lack some of the features Professionals need. Other than that – using the same lenses than a pro camera – you will be hard pressed to be able to see a difference to the Pro cams.
It is my recommendation for the ambitious photographer, who takes this hobby serious.

3. Pro Level DSLR

Well those are the Mercedes, Ferrari and Rolls Royce in the Photography world. One major difference is the way they are built. While not exclusive for Pro Level and not the only difference to Entry level cameras, Pro Level cams have weather and moisture seals, very sophisticated materials to ensure proper functions even under the most adverse situations and they have a wide range of adjustment options, that allow the fine tuning of images to a degree, that Entry level cameras a) do not provide and b) not need. Keep in mind that professional requirements are not necessarily the same as those of an amateur. Many of those specific settings you won’t miss as a serious amateur, even if you’re doing it for many years.

My recommendation is not too specific. Lets say that: I wouldn’t recommend Pro Level Gear for a beginner.

This Gear will not suit you well, because it does not provide the help and automatics you will need to have if you start out and provide the sure footing that you need to improve in time.
However I recommend Pro DSLR’s for the ambitious amateur, who is advanced enough to take advantage of the advanced features, who shoots in tough environments, heat, humidity, dust etc and of course to those who are slated to make a living with photography.

The MegaPixel myth and DPI.

Come again?

Well to make it understandable we have to understand, what higher MP values mean practically.
For one 12MP visually do not provide double the image real estate than 6 MP. It sure is bigger but for most purposes and uses, but you will hardly really notice a difference in every day applications.
But there is one difference and that is one many people aren’t even aware of, and that is that
DSLR cameras provide a higher print resolution than Point and shoots.

The following chart shows different MP sizes and Print resolutions for a variety of formats.

But again it’s a bit tricky and even misleading and only holds interest, if you are bound to have your images printed in best possible quality. If not and you use your images the way most people use images – for the web and on your Monitor the dpi differences are of no consequence.

To explain what DPI means: Dots per inch is the solution for this abbreviation. To put that in perspective.
The standard screen resolution is 72 dpi, in newer models 96 dpi. Professional Print material requires at least 300 dpi, 600 dpi is more or less standard and top notch prints are printed at even higher values up to 1200 dpi.

Putting our feet back and firm on the ground of reality – if we don not print professionally – the 10 MP of a Point and shoot will look as big as the 10 mp of a DSLR on our screen.

But – do not despair. Image quality is not really decided by MP or DPI. It is one factor in a myriad of factors.

And this explanation serves only the purpose to put things in proper perspective, not to put quality measures on them. What finally decides the quality is something for one of the next topics in this series.

For now I conclude the overview of the camera part – next up will be Lenses and accessories.